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Jonathan Anderson made his couture debut for Dior. His first haute couture collection is a celebration of nature, craft and a fresh perspective on tradition.
Paris witnessed a moment months in the making. Jonathan Anderson, former creative director of Loewe, presented his first haute couture collection for the storied French house. And he demonstrated that tradition can be honoured by turning it completely on its head.
Anderson rejected the established couture format that has changed little since Charles Frederick Worth’s day in the 19th century. He divided his collection into three parts: a runway show, a private client event and a weeklong exhibition open to the public. “Couture can be a double-edged sword. We want to let people in without them feeling alienated,” the designer explained.
The collection is a poetic meditation on nature, both real and imagined. Translucent swirling tops recall seashells, while feathery scales mimic butterfly wings in extreme close-up. Knit mini capes swallow the body in soft folds and bell-shaped dresses evoke lily-of-the-valley, founder Christian Dior’s favourite bloom.
Anderson also drew inspiration from the ceramics of British-Kenyan artist Magdalene Odundo, who collaborated with him on several versions of the iconic Lady Dior handbag. Her work will feature in the accompanying exhibition alongside 15 looks from the new collection and nine archival pieces by Dior himself.
The designer did not shy away from references to his predecessors. In a minimalist black Bar coat paired with tufted pink mules, one can sense the sharpness of Raf Simons, while the bias-draped black evening gowns echo John Galliano’s Belle Époque sensibility – Galliano himself was in attendance, marking his first time at a Dior show since his departure from the house in 2011.