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A Jewel of Roman Heritage and Milanese Craftsmanship
Bvlgari, a name synonymous with high jewelry and fine watchmaking, once again proves at this year’s LVMH Watch Week that innovation and respect for tradition
His Vinařství Obelisk (Obelisk Winery) in Valtice is built on bridging the legacy of the Liechtenstein dynasty with a sensitive approach to nature. According to entrepreneur František Fabičovic, great wine requires time and patience — from meticulous vineyard work to extended aging, sometimes even in amphorae made from clay excavated right beneath the winery’s foundations.
Wine accompanies us throughout life as a noble, cultural, and social beverage. Without it, it’s hard to imagine celebrations—whether family gatherings or community events like our regional hody (harvest festivals) or wine tastings. Here in our region, wine is the drink of choice when young people meet or when friends say goodbye. A multi-course meal is hardly complete without a carefully selected wine. The bond between gastronomy and wine is inseparable, especially in southern Europe, where people also tend to live longer. The answer is clear: wine equals life in all its forms—its joys and, sadly, sometimes its sorrows. A great wine can slow you down, making you reflect not just on the wine itself but on life and human existence.
I’ve known this area since childhood — I’m from nearby Charvátská Nová Ves, now part of Břeclav, where my ancestors were among the largest farmers and winemakers. My connection to nature, agriculture, and this landscape is in my DNA. I’ve lived in Valtice for 20 years and even served as a local council member. Our entire region is shaped by the Liechtensteins, who were masters of land management, nature stewardship, and landscape design. Their work inspired me — both at Obora Obelisk, a landscape project, and at Vinařství Obelisk, where I continue the winemaking traditions of my grandfather and the Liechtensteins. Valtice was the obvious choice. Plus, I’ve revitalized a site that had been neglected for decades—even derelict in recent years. During socialism, it housed a border guard unit…
Good things take time — and with wine, that’s doubly true. Ask any top wine region if they sell young vintage wines for tens or hundreds of euros in spring. I don’t know any that do. At Obelisk, we’ve chosen a more challenging path: working with nature, not against it. We treat our vineyards as a gift from past generations, striving to leave the land in equal or better condition for the future. Great wine starts with healthy grapes, and we avoid commercial yeasts, enzymes, or animal-based additives. Our wines are pure, expressing their terroir distinctly — they’re anything but mass-produced. They need years to reveal their true character.
Hintertály is my heart’s vineyard. Its rich history, loess soil, and southern exposure set it apart—plus, it’s home to our winery. After a few years, our Ryzlink rýnský (Riesling) becomes beautifully mature yet vibrant, with aging potential. Even our earliest vintages are complex, layered wines worth exploring all evening. The Chardonnay and Sylvánské zelené (Sylvaner) grown here are fresh, often with citrus and acacia honey notes. Whether we make sparkling wine, still wine, or late-harvest Botrytis-affected selections, the result is always wonderfully drinkable.
Hintertály tops my personal ranking, but each site excels differently. Terasy u Křížového sklepu yields grapes for high-end selections, like our 2023 berry-select sweet wine, our only naturally sweet offering. Pod Reistnou shines with aromatic Pálava and Sylvánské, while Jižní svahy grows stellar Pinot Blanc — one even made it into Salon vín, Czechia’s top 100 wines. Each plot is unique; it’s our job to unlock its potential.
A small correction: our amphorae aren’t Georgian kvevri. We’re deeply rooted in our region, so we made our own — Valtické amfory — from clay dug during construction. Local artist Zdenka Benešová crafted them, inspired by kvevri. For me, it’s a deeper connection: the same soil that grows our vines also shapes the vessels where wine ferments. The technique is 8,000 years old: grapes ferment with skins for 4–6 months, then age in oak. Simple yet unrepeatable — I know no other winery using amphorae from its own land.
I love great contemporary architecture. Historic buildings fill our towns, but exceptional modern ones are rare. From the start, Obelisk had to blend cutting-edge design with the landscape — much like the Liechtensteins, who dotted the region with salety (pavilions, temples, and vistas) inspired by antiquity. We’ve updated their approach. Visitors see the building only at the last moment—it’s seamlessly embedded in the terrain, despite resting on a massive concrete plinth hiding the entire winery. Up close, it’s light, airy, and elegant, framing views of the Pálava hills. Few realize two cellar floors, production areas, and storage lie beneath. Every functional detail is hidden yet accessible—proof that beauty and practicality can coexist.
I adore bottle-fermented sparkling wines, and we’re reviving a local tradition: over 100 years ago, a French company made “champagne” in Valtice, from vineyards we now farm. Recently, we planted all three Champagne varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot noir, and Pinot meunier, here called Mlynářka. So we’ll soon release a Moravian rarity: sparkling wine from this trio. Currently, we offer three sparklers: a crisp German-style Cuvée Riesling, a fruity Cuvée Rosé, and a zero-dosage Pinot & Chardonnay Brut Nature. That’s uncommon in Moravia.
A satisfied customer is the highest honor. Competitions are useful benchmarks, but genuine praise from drinkers means the most. Their feedback shapes our future. Beyond Decanter, we’ve excelled at Japan’s Sakura Wine Awards (judged solely by women), winning “Best Czech Still Wine.” That’s why we’re export pioneers — our wines reach Japan, Thailand, and Korea, with more destinations coming.
We’re not yet the world’s most famous wine region, but our quality and fair prices surprise. Our “exotic” status helps: many consumers crave alternatives to predictable French, Spanish, or Italian wines. As experts say, we’re Europe’s undiscovered wine treasure.
